When shopping for an amplifier, make sure it has speaker level inputs if you will bypass the line out converter. Instead of a line out converter, you can also use an amplifier that has speaker level inputs.
Aftermarket head units have RCA inputs built in which will remove the need for a line out converter. This is necessary to be able to convert speaker wires (high level output) from the stock head unit to the amplifier in the form of RCA cables (low level output). The next topic I would like to discuss is the need for a line out converter. It is important to properly supply the correct amount of power to each speaker for proper performance and longevity. Prolonged exposure to peak power will damage or blow the speakers. Peak power is the power speakers can handle for a short time and still be ok without damage. This is the type of power that can be safely supplied to the speaker at all times. When talking RMS power, think about a constant power.
You can also go with a 5 channel amplifier that will power the 4 door speakers and a subwoofer. If you are going with a subwoofer as well, you can use a 4 channel amplifier to power the speakers and a mono amplifier to power the subwoofer. Since the speakers run off of 4ohms, the amplifier will have to push 75 watts RMS x 4 channels at 4ohms. In order to properly supply each speaker you would have to run a 4 channel amplifier. For this reason I have decided to push 75 watts RMS to each speaker through an amplifier. When talking to the Crutchfield rep, he recommended any power to the speakers of over 80 watts RMS requires running new wiring from the head unit to the speakers. The rear door speakers call for 100 watts of RMS and 300 watts Peak. The front door speakers call for 150 watts RMS and 450 watts Peak. He said the stock head unit in both the 6" and 7" Entune system push out about 18 watts of RMS power. I talked to a Crutchfield rep and discussed the possibility of adding an amplifier to properly supply the 4 door speakers with power. Even with all this improvement the system feels lacking and the sound can be a bit high at times. After 20 hours or so of break in time, the speakers began to reproduce a bit more bass than the stock system. The first few days the bass suffered a little bit sounding less "full" than the previous stock speakers. This allowed for even less distortion with an increase in clarity. A week later I installed the Kicker replacement door speakers. The Kicker/Subaru replacement tweeters gave me the best bang for my buck changing the muffled and distorted sound of the stock tweeters. Kicker 43CSC6934 6"x9" 3-way car speakers $101 Genuine Subaru H631SFJ101 Tweeter Kit (1 Pair) Kicker Subaru Replacement Tweeters I also like the OEM+ setup, but it says that it is a pre order, and I don't know if it will be as good as the JL sub with a solid set of door speakers.
RMS OUTPUT FACTORY HEAD UNIT HOW TO
My reasons for not going powered all the way is that I want to install it myself and I don't have much experience with it, so I am not sure how to run new wires to the door speakers from the amp, I might end up getting it installed, but then its all going to get way to expensive really quick, and I don't really trust any of the local installers.
RMS OUTPUT FACTORY HEAD UNIT DRIVERS
My question is should I go with a 5 channel amp and power the door speakers? OR can I get away with powering 2-way JL speakers in the drivers doors and a decent set of speakers in the rear with the stock headunit? So far I have the Subaru tweeters for up front, and I plan on getting the JL stealth box as part of the group buy. I actually like the stock system and think that it isn't bad, and I like the stock head unit. I want to spend some money on a good audio set up and have something that is really solid. I have a 2017 Tacoma double cab and this is the first vehicle that I plan on keeping for a while. Hey y'all, I am in a bit of a dilemma as to which path to take with my audio system.
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